Audemars Piguet Cobra Rhombus

Audemars Piguet’s experimental streak in the ‘70s and ‘80s wasn’t just about the Royal Oak. The brand was deep in a creative renaissance, playing with case shapes that challenged the norms of what a luxury dress watch could be. Cushion, octagonal, rectangular—AP wasn’t afraid to push boundaries. And then there’s this: the rhombus-shaped case, a true standout in their integrated bracelet designs.

It’s not just the shape that grabs your attention; it’s the execution. The overlapping bezel doesn’t just frame the dial—it enhances it, giving the case a sculptural depth. The hand-engraved details contrast against the simplicity of the dial, a play in textures that AP mastered. At 32mm across, it wears with more presence than you’d expect, thanks in part to its sweeping geometry.

Then there’s the dial itself. At first glance, it’s restrained—just a blue canvas punctuated by three diamond indices and the applied AP logo at 12. But in motion, it transforms. The sunburst finish plays with light, shifting between an almost black midnight blue to an electric cobalt. It’s the kind of dynamic effect that turns a simple glance at your wrist into a moment of appreciation.

And the bracelet—where do we even begin? Integrated, handwoven, and crafted from solid 18k white gold. The pattern is intricate yet deliberate, alternating between braided and polished V-shaped links, creating a texture that feels both opulent and effortless. Six rows of pure artistry wrap around the wrist (up to 7.25 inches), making it one of the most impressive bracelets AP has ever made.

This is a watch that commands attention the moment it’s strapped on. Weighing over 80 grams and powered by a manual-wound movement, it carries the kind of reassuring heft that reminds you this is serious watchmaking. It’s luxurious but never overbearing, vintage but futuristic in its boldness.

AP’s design experimentation from this era produced some truly wild creations, but few strike the balance of artistry, wearability, and sheer audacity quite like this one. If you’re after something unique—even by vintage AP standards—you’ve just found it.