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The Iconic Slim Suit.
Being one the most recognizable models for the Cartier brand, the Tank Louis has so many model variations and nuances since its inception almost 100 years ago. The rabbit hole we find ourselves in today is the Ultra Thin model, particularly the Pre-CPCP (Collection Privée Cartier Paris) version.
It has all the quintessential details you would find in a Cartier Tank Louis - the iconic Tank shape, 18K yellow gold case, the classic Cartier dial and the signature sapphire cabochon crown. However, being a Pre-CPCP model it carries 2 distinct features: a wafer thin case thanks to the Fredrec Piguet cal. 21 movement, and a mesmerizing guilloché dial.
When comparing the case thickness against the common vintage Tank Louis model sporting an ETA 2512 / 78-1 calibre, the extra millimetres that are shaved is noticeable in a big way. The Fredrec Piguet cal. 21 movement itself is also a quality upgrade. More accurate, better constructed with beautiful Côtes de Genève finishing throughout. It's a detail collectors love to know is powering their watch behind the dial.
The flinqué guilloché pattern elevates this model above the plain white dials found on more standard Tank Louis versions. It is a set of tightly woven lines, creating a textured, almost ripple-like effect that plays beautifully with the light. The guilloché pattern is slightly tighter than the one found on later CPCP versions. While both periods offer intricate dial work, the more compact guilloché on this earlier model lends an air of understated refinement, setting it apart in terms of detail and rarity.
The 18k yellow deployment buckle is what completes the watch. This ‘hidden’ clasp is a design that dates back to 1909 when it was patented by Edmond Jaeger in collaboration with Louis Cartier. It radically improved the appearance of the strap by making the clasp invisible when closed and also securing the watch from falling off. When a design is that good, it stands the test of time.
Overall the Cartier Tank Louis is a watch that transcends trends, firmly rooted in the history of fine watchmaking. This ultra-thin version, a pre-Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) model, is a masterpiece of refinement and simplicity—a true homage to Louis Cartier’s iconic design ethos.
The watch is in great condition. The case lines are sharp with hallmarks very deep and visible.
The dial is clean with a small marking around the 2 o' clock position.
The mineral glass and sapphire cabochon are pristine.
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