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The Mystery Watch.
In the never ending treasure hunt for vintage watches, it is common to come across models you know very little about. For us collectors, this moment transforms us into detectives trying to piece information to solve a mystery. The rabbit hole takes us digging deep within the forums, having lengthy chats with fellow enthusiasts and flipping through old watch books. While it can be frustrating at times, we secretly love it. Thus was the case with this Cartier mystery watch...until recently.
Here's the story.
Originally produced before the Must collection in the late 70s, the Cartier Tank Stepped Case came in three unique references - the Paris, London and New York City edition.
While at first glance they all may appear similar, the "NYC" reference we have here is the standout. Its build quality is the best of the three. Its case is gold plated on brass (vs. on stainless steel), the case back is screwed down (vs. snapback) and the crown is recessed and elongated (vs. exposed and shortened). With approximately only 2,500 examples ever produced, there are fewer "NYC" models as compared to 10,000 of the Paris and London editions. This explains why this particular reference demands a higher premium to its counterparts.
The Cartier Tank Stepped Case "NYC" is a unique offshoot from the traditional Tank. While it carries similar design DNA, there are some obvious differences.
For one, its 28mm case is considerably larger than the traditional 23mm. Back in the 70s this was a bold move for the brand and even by today's standards, it has noticeable wrist presence. The case has a bevelled step design that wraps around the dial like a beautiful picture frame. The dial itself is hand painted with black lacquer and has sword-shaped hands to match. Because the case is also taller, the designers had to slightly curve the corner roman numerals to fit in the dial. It's an elegant detail for the keen eye. Lastly, the extra pointed cabochon crown looks like a cherry on top of a cake - a subtle jeweller's statement that I simply adore.
Overall this timepiece represents the funky 70s and one of the last creative executions of the Cartier boutiques before they were all consolidated and standardized.
So, have we answered the 5Ws? Have we connected the dots? Are we ready to solve this case? Inquire within and let us know.
This watch is in excellent condition.
The case shows little signs of wear. The gold plating is well preserved and intact throughout. The case back hallmarks and serial number are still clear and visible. There is a small blemish on the bottom left lug which can only be seen from the case back with a very close eye. It is not a distraction.
The white dial is in mint condition. There is no cracking or blemishes to note.
The hands, crystal and crown are also in mint condition.
The leather strap is in excellent condition - the original gold lettering is still there.
The manual wound movement has been recently serviced and is keeping accurate time.
