Piaget Dancer Diamond Ruby

By the mid-1980s, Piaget had already cemented itself as the king of ultra-thin, gem-set dress watches. The Polo was a resounding success, defining the idea of a full-gold luxury sports watch years before it became a trend. But the Dancer? That was a step even further into decadence—an evolution designed to match the larger-than-life opulence of the era.

This particular example is a striking expression of that ethos. Crafted entirely in 18k yellow gold, the square case flows seamlessly into an integrated bracelet—one of Piaget’s signatures—ensuring continuity in design. The weight is substantial at 97 grams, giving it the kind of presence you can actually feel on the wrist.

But the real showstopper here is the pavé diamond dial. Piaget didn’t just dabble in gem-setting; they set the standard. Under a loupe, the execution is flawless—each prong is equal in size, spacing is perfect, and the surface of the dial gleams under the light like a sheet of gold-dusted ice. The four ruby markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 add a sharp contrast, not just for visual intrigue but also for practical timekeeping.

While most Dancer models from this era were equipped with quartz movements, this one houses something far rarer—Piaget’s ultra-thin 9P2 manual-wind caliber. Finding one in this configuration is uncommon, and for those who appreciate mechanical watchmaking, this detail alone makes it a standout.

The bracelet is another highlight. Thanks to an inner articulating link, it conforms comfortably to the wrist despite its visual rigidity. It’s also screw-adjustable, unlike the fixed-length bracelets often seen on Piaget’s 1970s pieces, making sizing far easier. The signature Dancer design motif, featuring a central bar with circular accents, adds to its sculptural quality.

Years of safekeeping have left an incredible warm patina across the gold, subtly toning down the brightness and adding to the watch’s character. More importantly, the case edges remain sharp, a testament to its great condition—something seasoned collectors always keep an eye out for.

Piaget’s legacy is one of audacious creativity, of elevating everyday objects into pure expressions of luxury. This Dancer is a perfect example of that philosophy in action.