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The Turtle Shell.
Van Cleef & Arpels is known for many things—haute joaillerie, mystery settings, and creations that blur the line between jewelry and art. But what’s less discussed is the brand’s vintage watchmaking, which, when you know where to look, holds some of the most unique and daring designs of its era. This piece is one of them—a rare collaboration with none other than Gérald Genta, a designer who needs no introduction.
At first glance, it’s easy to mistake the rich, warm case and dial for Tiger Eye stone, but that’s where things get interesting. This is actually acetate—a material more often seen in high-end eyewear than watchmaking. It’s slightly translucent, something no stone could ever achieve, and when light hits it just right, it glows with a warmth that feels alive. Here, the acetate takes center stage, seamlessly covering the dial, bezel, and even the crown, creating a cohesive, organic flow.
The case shape is another standout. Not quite round, not quite square, its softly curved silhouette is reminiscent of a turtle shell, giving it a natural, sculptural feel. Made from 18K yellow gold, it’s signed Van Cleef & Arpels on the case back. The bullet-style lugs, similar to those seen on Cartier Obus and Vendôme models, allow the shape to breathe, keeping the focus on the dial without any unnecessary interruptions.
Speaking of the dial—there’s nothing to distract from the acetate’s depth and movement. No hour markers, no numerals, just the Van Cleef & Arpels signature in gold print at 12 o’clock, with “Swiss” tucked away at the bottom. It’s restrained, confident, and lets the material do the talking.
Inside, Genta’s influence continues. The watch is powered by an ultra-thin manual-wind movement based on the Frédérique Piguet caliber 21, allowing for an exceptionally slim profile. It’s the kind of mechanical elegance that makes a difference—you feel it the moment you put it on.
Completing the package is the original VCA-stamped leather strap and 18K gold buckle, rounding out an already rare find in its most authentic form.
As collectors continue to seek out unique case shapes and lesser-explored brands, pieces like this are getting the attention they’ve long deserved. This is Van Cleef & Arpels at its most daring—an unconventional beauty that’s as much a statement piece as it is a conversation starter.
A true hidden gem from a golden era of watch design.
This watch is in excellent condition.
The case retains its original lines.
The dial, crystal and hands are mint.
The case back has light markings.
The original leather strap shows light wear.
